I have an unmodified 5gal igloo cooler that I line with 2 of these bags 1 on top of the other. Bags get put in, grain goes into the bags, water added to the grain, then after the mash, I can run the wort out of the spigot or just lift the grain bags up and out, and let the wort drain that way.
Basically 5gal-sized Brew In A Bag technique. Works like a charm. I chill my wort in place on the stovetop and transfer to my primary with an autosiphon. But I transfer to a larger metal screen strainer on top of my primary fermentor that has a paint strainer bag arranged inside it. This strains out the debris hops, whirlyfloc, and hot break and helps with aeration.
I have also used a nylon stocking and the paint strainer bag over the autosiphon inflow and this works but clogs after a while. I use something called a "china cap strainer" to strain my wort before it goes into the fermentor. These things work greater, as it fits into the funnel I use on top of the fermentor and they have a good handle to jostle the strainer to encourage the wort to work it's way past the captured hops and trub.
If you live in an area with a significant Asian population, you can find these things in a store that sells Asian cooking ware.
I also use the paint strainer method, but I use it during the boil. I have a little piece of PVC that the paint strainer is connected to using a clamp. I just toss the hops into the strainer, and then pull the strainer out when I'm ready to transfer.
I ran into a similar issue the first brew I made. The hops bunged up the spigot very quickly while transferring to carboy. This method worked, but I would avoid it because the strainer got bunged up very quickly and this process was tedious. After talking to some local home brewers I decided to go with a Hops Spider.
If I didn't have the money to buy one, my other option was to use the whirlpool method :. For brewers that have a pump, whirlpooling post boil is a handy technique. You simply recirculate your wort through a pump, which creates a gentle whirlpool in the kettle. The hop material and trub will all collect in a nice cone in the center of the kettle, and you can draw clear wort into your fermenter.
Sign up to join this community. I think it makes sense. Less trub in the fermentor makes rinsing yeast easier. The strainer helps aerate the beer and once a layer of hop material has formed in the strainer it creates a natural filter to help strain out break material and other garbage I dont want going into the fermentor.
I don't think it necessarily aids the flavor of the beer but I do think it aids my brewing process and clarity, especially since I normally do not fine and only sometimes cold crash. I do think you can make fine beer without straining.
Heck yeah I blog about homebrewing: Brain Sparging on Brewing. Quote from: reverseapachemaster on June 05, , pm. Quote from: gymrat on June 05, , pm. Then the wort is sucked out from the side of the sediment with the pickup tube and scrubber. The hop stopper has gotten good reviews. Unlike the bazooka screen, it will suck up almost every last drop of wort. This is a great option for filtering, but because of the price it may be better as a DIY project. Although more common in mash tuns, bazooka screens are also used as hop filters in boil kettles.
These are notorious for clogging with hop pellets, so if you use one, make sure you use whole leaf hops. They also leave behind wort because they are slightly elevated. A false bottom is a metal perforated disk that allows liquid below but keeps solids on top. So basically, a screen. I will do AG one day but right now that's not practical on a number of fronts.
Llamaman said:. Is that done just by leaving some liquid in your chill 'cube', or do you use some kind of filter? Also, if you don't mind me asking, what chill container are you using? You must log in or register to reply here. Latest posts. Real Ale pubs - Sheffield Latest: Sadfield 7 minutes ago.
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