The first notable change in fashion came in The low-waisted dress was not yet popular, but neither was jazz music. The first mass marketed jazz recordings were made in , and the popularity of jazz soared. Consequently, women's dresses became loosely fitted, and waistlines dropped to the hips. Upper and lower body freedom was essential when dancing the Charleston, so dresses were cut to reflect the ability to move freely while dancing.
She's not what Grandma used to be,-- You might say au contraire. Her girlish ways make a stir, Her manners cause a scene, But there is no more harm in her Than in a submarine. She nightly knocks for many a goal The usual dancing men. Her speed is great, but her control Is something else again. All spotlights focus on her pranks. All tongues her prowess herald. For which she well may render thanks To God or Scott Fitzgerald. Her golden rule is plain enough- Just get them young and treat them rough.
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Edwardian Era. Depression Era. Bell that legitimized the forced sterilization of patients at a Virginia home for the mentally retarded. These statutes were not abolished until the mid-twentieth century, with approximately 60, Americans legally sterilized. This led to passage of the federal Immigration Act of , which reduced the number of immigrants from abroad to 15 percent from previous years.
Harry H. Laughlin : Harry H. There are also direct links between progressive American eugenicists such as Harry H. Laughlin and racial oppression in Europe. Before the realization of death camps in World War II, the idea that eugenics would lead to genocide was not taken seriously by the average American. When Nazi administrators went on trial for war crimes in Nuremberg after the war, however, they justified more than , mass sterilizations in less than a decade by citing U.
These sterilizations were the precursor to the Holocaust, the Nazi attempt at genocide against Jews and other ethnic groups they deemed unfavorable to the human gene pool. The Southern Renaissance literary movement of the s and s broke from the romantic view of the Confederacy. The Southern Renaissance was a movement that reinvigorated American Southern literature in the s and s.
Perhaps ironically, however, this movement that explored racial questions and themes seemed to exclude African-American writers of the time. In the s, the satirist H. Mencken led the attack on the genteel tradition in American literature, ridiculing the provincialism of American intellectual life.
This created a storm of protest from within conservative circles in the South. In response to the attacks of Mencken and his imitators, Southern writers were provoked to reassert Southern uniqueness and engage in a deeper exploration of the theme of Southern identity. Henry Louis Mencken : H. Mencken was an influential American writer and social critic who unwittingly helped to launch the Southern Renaissance literary movement. The emergence of the Southern Renaissance as a literary and cultural movement also has been seen as a consequence of the opening up of the predominantly rural South to outside influences due to the industrial expansion that took place in the region during and after World War I.
Southern Renaissance writers broke from this tradition by addressing three major themes in their works. The first was the burden of history in a place where many people still personally remembered slavery, Reconstruction, and a devastating military defeat. Because of the chronological distance these writers had from the Civil War and slavery, they were able to bring objectivity to writings about the South.
They also employed new, modernistic techniques such as stream of consciousness and complex narratives. Among the writers of the Southern Renaissance, William Faulkner is arguably the most influential and famous as the recipient of the Nobel Prize for Literature in William Faulkner, : William Faulkner, author of the novel, The Sound and the Fury , was a leading voice in the Southern Renaissance movement.
Some of the most outspoken criticisms against the idea of the lost cause of the Confederacy came from African-American, Southern writers prior to World War I, including from Charles W. Yet African-American writers were not considered part of the Southern literary tradition as defined by the white, primarily male authors who saw themselves as its creators and guardians.
This is a rather glaring omission, considering the prominence of other notable African-American writers from the South such as Richard Wright, a Mississippi native and author of the renowned novel, Native Son. Richard Wright : Native Son author Richard Wright was one of the notable African-American authors who has been arguably overlooked as part of the Southern literary tradition.
The Harlem Renaissance was an arts and literary movement in the s that brought African-American culture to mainstream America. The Harlem Renaissance was a cultural movement that spanned the s and s.
Though the Harlem Renaissance was centered in the Harlem neighborhood of New York City, many French-speaking black writers from African and Caribbean colonies who lived in Paris were also influenced by the Renaissance. In France, black soldiers experienced the kind of freedom they had never known in the United States, but returned to find that discrimination against blacks was just as active as it had been before the war.
Many African-American soldiers who fought in segregated units during World War I, like the Harlem Hellfighters, came home to a nation whose citizens often did not respect their accomplishments.
Race pride had already been part of literary and political self-expression among African-Americans in the nineteenth century. However, it found a new purpose and definition in the journalism, fiction, poetry, music, sculpture, and paintings of many figures associated with the Harlem Renaissance.
Despite the challenges of race and class in the s, a new spirit of hope and pride marked black activity and expression in all areas. The many debates regarding art and propaganda, representation and identity, assimilation versus militancy, and parochialism versus globalism enriched perspectives on issues of art, culture, politics, and ideology that have emerged in African-American culture. In , a large block along th Street and Fifth Avenue was purchased by various African-American realtors and a church group.
Due to the war, the migration of laborers from Europe virtually ceased, while the war effort resulted in a massive demand for unskilled industrial labor. Among them were a great number of artists whose influence would come to bear, especially in jazz music.
Despite the increasing popularity of Negro culture, virulent white racism, often by more recent ethnic immigrants, continued to impact African-American communities. Race riots and other civil uprisings occurred throughout the United States during the so-called Red Summer of , reflecting economic competition over jobs and housing in many cities, as well as tensions over social territories. The first stage of the Harlem Renaissance started in the late s, notably with the premiere of Three Plays for a Negro Theatre.
These plays, written by white playwright Ridgely Torrence, featured African-American actors conveying complex human emotions and yearnings. They rejected the stereotypes of the blackface and minstrel-show traditions. In , in the Pittsburgh Courier newspaper, Harrison challenged the notion of the renaissance. It is true that W. This work preempted the Harlem Renaissance, but also undoubtedly offered some degree of inspiration and fodder for its writers.
The works of the Harlem Renaissance appealed to a wide audience and marked a proliferation of African-American cultural influence, with magazines such as The Crisis , the journal of the National Association for the Advancement of Colored People NAACP , and Opportunity , the publication of the National Urban League, both employing Harlem Renaissance writers on their staffs, while white-owned publishing houses and magazines also supported the movement.
Many authors began to publish novels, magazines, and newspapers during this time. The traditional jazz band was composed primarily of brass instruments and considered a symbol of the South, but the piano was considered an instrument of the wealthy.
With this instrumental modification to the existing genre, wealthy African Americans now had more access to jazz music. Its popularity soon spread throughout the country. Innovation and liveliness were important characteristics of performers in the beginnings of jazz. During this time period, the musical style of blacks was becoming more and more attractive to whites. White novelists, dramatists, and composers started to exploit the musical tendencies and themes of African Americans in their own works.
Composers used poems written by African-American poets in their songs, while implementing the rhythms, harmonies, and melodies of African-American music—such as blues, spirituals, and jazz—into their concert pieces. African Americans also began to merge with white artists in the classical world of musical composition, which had long been popular among white audiences, especially among the middle class and wealthy with roots going back to Europe where classical music had been dominant for centuries.
The Harlem Renaissance rested on a support system of black patrons and black-owned businesses and publications. Previously only prostitutes rouged their cheeks, and wearing visible signs of makeup was considered slatternly by polite society.
The flappers, however, were not so worried about the social mores of their elders, and had fun using makeup to enhance their features before a night out dancing or sipping cocktails.
The kohl-rimmed eye was especially chic, and women also indulged in blush and lipstick. Another style for which flappers are known is the layered necklace look. This was also popularized by Coco Chanel, who encouraged women to pile on layers of pearl jewelry, ropes, chains, and beads. Whether it was fine jewelry or fabulous fakes did not matter to Chanel, who was an early advocate for costume jewelry.
Brooches were also stylish in the '20s. Shoes became an important fashion accessory thanks to the rising hemlines of the dresses. Two inch heel shoes with t-straps or Mary Jane designs were the most stylish. Sparkly crystal or diamante buckles and trim were stylish for evening wear.
It should be remembered that before the advent of widespread electric light, far fewer people had a need for special evening wear, and in the s, this category of womenswear took on a new importance. Glamor was the goal for these free-spirited party girls. The style of "The Great Gatsby" has captured imaginations.
Flappers were energetic, healthy, and vibrant. Not only did they frequent speakeasies by night, but they drove — not just rode, but drove — open top cars, rode bicycles, and horses.
For the first time ever, suntans came into vogue, thanks to Coco Chanel. Their radical new attitude definitely drew criticism from the establishment. Matrons did not know what to make of their thrill-seeking daughters, and despaired that their shamelessness and hedonism would lead to a bad end.
Fathers could not imagine how the generation of young men who idled away their nights in nightclubs could be counted on to be pillars of society. Women were criticized for trying to look like men with their shapeless shifts and to act like men by publicly drinking, smoking, and driving.
It is fascinating to realize how similar the fashions and prevailing attitude towards freedom first seen during the s was revisited by the Youthquake of the s, with the women in their waistless minidresses. Someone as brash as the flapper was bound to attract a lot of attention in popular culture. Flappers were discussed in every forum, and were often featured in the glamorous Art Deco illustrations of the day. They were also written about. The Great Gatsby by F. Scott Fitzgerald is revered as the ultimate contemporary chronicle of the lifestyle of the Jazz Age.
An interesting thing about Gatsby is that it was not a bestseller when it was first published in It tells the cautionary tale of wealthy young people floating aimlessly through life after the Great War. They are attractive, but shallow, and in the end, it all ends poorly. It brings to mind lawn parties with cocktails, floaty chiffon shifts, and dashing young men. The end of Prohibition gave people something to celebrate during the Great Depression.
As exciting as the Jazz Age was, all good things must come to an end. This particular decade-long party came to a screeching halt with the stock market crash on October 29,
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